Ball Python Care Sheet
Ball Pythons are rapidly becoming one of the more popular snakes to be chosen as pets. Ball pythons have a relatively easy going nature. When startled or stressed, the ball python tends to tuck his head under his body and curl up into a ball, hence the Python regius more common name. Many dazzling captive bred color morphs have been emerging, ranging from albino to pastel to spider to piebald. All of these factors combined make the ball python an excellent choice for both the beginning and advanced reptile owner.
Natural History:
The natural range of the Ball Python is western Africa to central Africa, just north of the equator. It can be found in open forests, as well as drier savannahs. It is usually found in areas with good cover near open water where it can cool itself during hot weather, since temperatures often exceed 100ºF. It spends most of its time on or under the ground in confiscated burrows, although it can climb trees and surrounding scub if need be.
Cage Size:
Ball Pythons do not requirelarge enclosures. Snakes will continually to grow and will become miserable, nippy, and eventually ill, if the proper tank size is not provided. A baby ball python can easily live in a twenty gallon aquarium with a secure screen cover for several months. A juvenile (8 months to 1 year) to an adult ball python will need a thirty to fifty gallon enclosure. Larger aquariums such as a seventy-five gallon tank have also been used. All cages will need to have secure screen covers – every snake’s middle name is “Houdini.”
Substrate:
The substrate at the bottom of a cage is an important choice for a ball python owner to make. Aspen bedding is used by some owners, but the snake must be watched during feeding so as not to ingest the fiber. Alternatively, the snake could be placed in a separate secure plastic feeding tub, with small air holes in the sides or lid, for feeding. Reptile bark, also an option, it is attractive and natural-looking, but with the same feeding considerations as the aspen bedding. Butcher paper, or newspaper is not particularly attractive, but is inexpensive and is easy to replace. Terrarium liners can be used, but soils easily, so it is best to have several pieces available for the cage so you can replace the dirty liner while the other is being cleaned. Whichever substrate is chosen, soils need to be removed promptly, and the entire bedding should be replaced once a month.
Heating:
There are several choices for appropriate heating. Whatever choice of heating is used, it is very important to provide one area of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature is 80-85 degrees F. Ball pythons, like all reptiles, do not make their own body heat and rely on a behavioral mechanism called thermoregulation to regulate their body temperature. Thermoregulation means that when a reptile is too cool, it moves to an area to warm itself, and when it is too hot, it moves to a cooler area. Access to warm areas are critically important to the health of your snake. Appropriate heating is required for proper digestion and the effective functioning of the immune system.
A quality undertank heating pad should be placed outside of the cage and to one side. Undertank heaters are plastic with adhesive backing. The adhesive side of the heater can be used to attach it to the bottom of the outside of the tank, but this is not recommended, as it is easier to clean the cage without the heater stuck to it. These heaters can only be used with certain types of cages, for example glass terrariums, so check the recommendations before use. Another method of heating is the use of a metal reflector with a heat bulb, may be placed on top of the cage to one side, to create a basking area. Be aware that most snakes do not care for bright, glaring light, and have a tendency to suffer from dry skin with a heat light, making a moister environment where a snake can hide essential. Hot rocks are not to be used for heating ball pythons for several reasons. Hot rocks provide a localized heat source that is often too hot. As a result, the snake will curl itself about the rock in an attempt to raise its body temperature, this can result in serious thermal burns. Think about this from the snake's point of view. One tiny area of the cage is 100 degrees F, and the rest of the cage is freezing. Without some type of heat, reptiles will get sick, so the animal will use whatever source of heat is provided, even if it is too hot.
Feeding:
Ball pythons are not finicky eaters if they have the proper heat and enclosure. One important aspect of feeding that is often overlooked is the addition of hiding areas to the cage. Ball pythons, like most snakes, like to feel secure in their environment. One way of providing for this need to is put hiding spots in the enclosure. Hiding spots can be made of anything, as long as the snake can completely fit inside the area and hide itself from view. A hiding spot should be placed both on the warm end and the cool end of the cage, so that the animal can feel secure in any spot. Ball pythons kept without appropriate hiding areas become stressed and may refuse to eat.
Hatchling ball pythons begin eating fuzzy mice or rat pinks, and progress up to medium sized rats once they are mature. A good rule of thumb is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter. You should be able to see a small bulge where the snake’s stomach is located after feeding. If you are unable to distinguish said bulge, feed the snake more of the same size food item, example: two crawler mice instead of one, or feed one size larger food item. Be aware that feeding an item that is too large to your snake, could cause the snake to regurgitate or could have a prolapsed bowel. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area to digest or if they are handled too soon after they eat. Do not hold or play with your snake a day before or one day after feeding. Feed your ball python once a week. Clean water should be available at all times, ball pythons drink often. The water bowl should also be large enough for the snake to curl up in if they wish, as the moisture will aid them when the time comes for them to shed.
After you get Home –
Clear a spot for your snakes cage that is out of drafts and direct sunlight. Put the heat light or under tank heating pad to one side of the cage. If the cage is to be placed on a solid surface such as a dresser, it is advisable to put a piece of cardboard between the heat pad and dresser to reduce the possibility of warping the dresser’s surface. Set up your cage with about two inches of substrate, or cut and place the cage liner of your choice. Place a clean water bowl on the cool end of the tank. Arrange hides and décor as would most be beneficial to your snake while still leaving room for movement. Carefully open the carrying box your snake came home in, and gently put the snake in the tank. Put the screen cover on the tank and secure. If there is a way out of the tank, the snake will find it. Make sure heating devise is on, then step back and admire your work.
Allow your new snake two to three days to acclimate to its new surroundings before handling or feeding them. For the first month, try to only handle your snake one hour each day for several weeks and gradually increase your time together until you both are accustomed to one another. Then you and your ball python will be happy together for 15-20 years.
Additional Supplies and Information
Please contact Exotics & Aquatics Pet Store
We have all the necessities your new Ball Python needs, and we will gladly answer any questions you have.